Inheriting a box of jewelry often comes at a hard time, and it can be difficult to know where to start. Some pieces may be valuable, some purely sentimental, and many will be somewhere in between. There is no need to rush. A simple, careful process will help you understand what you have, protect anything valuable, and make decisions you will not regret later.
1. Keep everything together and safe
Before sorting, put the whole collection somewhere secure. Resist the urge to give pieces away, sell anything or throw out "junk" until you have looked at it all.
- Keep pieces in their original boxes and pouches. Brand boxes, receipts, certificates and old appraisals add both context and value.
- Look through drawers, safes and handbags for paperwork: insurance schedules, lab reports, repair receipts and notes.
- If the estate is being handled by an executor, check what they need before anything leaves the house.
2. Photograph and list every piece
A record protects you and makes every later step easier, including insurance, sharing with family and getting quotes.
For each item:
- Take a clear photo in daylight against a plain background, then a close-up of any stamp or signature.
- Give it a short number or name, such as "R3, yellow gold ring with three white stones."
- Note any history you know: who wore it, when it was bought, any paperwork.
A notes app or spreadsheet works fine. AI Jewelry is also useful at this stage: each scan saves the piece to a collection that syncs across your devices with iCloud, together with a suggested name, likely era, materials, possible brand and an estimated price range with reasoning. Treat those as notes to guide you, not as verified facts. A photo cannot confirm metal purity, weight or whether stones are natural.
3. Look for stamps and brands
Marks are the quickest way to separate likely fine jewelry from costume. Use a magnifier and good light, and check the inside of rings, the backs of pendants and brooches, and clasps and tags on chains and bracelets.
- Purity marks such as 10K, 14K, 18K, 585, 750, 925 or PT950 indicate precious metal.
- Plating codes such as GP, HGE, RGP or GF indicate plated or gold-filled pieces.
- Brand or maker's names can add a great deal of value, whether a fine jewelry house or a collectible costume designer.
Our hallmarks guide decodes the common marks. Remember that stamps can be faked and genuine pieces are sometimes unmarked, so treat what you find as a strong clue.
4. Don't clean aggressively
It is tempting to make everything sparkle, but cleaning can do real harm:
- Ultrasonic cleaners and steamers can loosen stones, crack fragile or treated gems, and damage pearls, opals, emeralds, turquoise and many others.
- Polishing cloths and dips remove metal and can wear away fine detail and plating. On antique pieces, an original surface is often part of the value.
- Chemicals such as bleach, chlorine and many household cleaners can attack gold alloys and pearls.
If something is dusty, a soft dry brush is plenty for now. Leave proper cleaning until you know what each piece is.
5. Separate costume from fine jewelry
Make three piles.
Likely fine jewelry: pieces with gold, platinum or silver purity marks; pieces with set stones in precious-metal mounts; anything that feels heavy for its size; signed pieces from known jewelers; anything with paperwork.
Likely costume: pieces with plating codes, glued-in stones, visible base metal or green discoloration at worn spots, and lightweight cast metal. Costume is not the same as worthless. Signed vintage costume from collected designers can sell well, so keep an eye out for names on the back.
Unsure: anything unmarked, worn or confusing. These are what professional help is for.
For more on telling metals apart, see how to tell if gold is real. For stones, see how to tell if a diamond is real and real vs fake pearls.
6. Decide what to appraise first
Appraisals cost money, so prioritize. Start with:
- Pieces with paperwork, such as old appraisals, lab reports or receipts
- Pieces with large or numerous stones in precious-metal settings
- Signed pieces from recognized jewelry houses
- Heavy gold or platinum pieces
- Anything family members want to keep, which may need insurance
Often you can take your "unsure" pile to a reputable local jeweler for a quick look first. Many will tell you which items deserve a formal appraisal and which are costume.
7. Choose the right kind of appraisal
Different appraisals answer different questions, and the numbers can be very different.
| Type | Purpose | What value it states |
|---|---|---|
| Insurance (replacement) | Insuring a piece you are keeping | Cost to replace with a comparable piece at retail, usually the highest figure |
| Estate (fair market value) | Dividing an estate, probate or tax purposes | What a willing buyer and seller would agree on, usually much lower |
| Liquidation / resale | Deciding whether and how to sell | What you could realistically expect if you sell |
Tell the appraiser which one you need. If an estate is involved, the executor or the estate's attorney may require a fair market value appraisal from a qualified appraiser. Look for credentials such as a GIA Graduate Gemologist diploma or membership in a recognized appraisal society, and avoid appraisers who charge a percentage of the appraised value or who also want to buy the pieces.
8. Keep, share, insure or sell
Once you know what you have:
- Keeping a piece? Get an insurance appraisal and add it to your policy or a specific jewelry policy. Standard home policies often have low limits for jewelry.
- Sharing among family? An estate or fair market appraisal gives everyone a neutral basis for dividing items fairly.
- Redesigning? Many jewelers can reset stones from older pieces into new settings, keeping the sentimental part.
- Selling? Match the venue to the piece: a gold buyer for scrap, a consignment or estate jeweler for good signed or antique pieces, and an auction house for important ones. Get more than one quote.
Before selling solid gold or silver, work out its melt value so you can judge offers. Our guide to how much your jewelry is worth shows how.
Tip: if a piece matters to someone in the family, set it aside before any selling begins. A sale cannot be undone, so ask before anything goes.
Caring for the pieces you keep
- Store items separately in soft pouches or a lined, divided box so they don't scratch each other. Diamonds can scratch other stones and metals.
- Keep pearls and opals away from heat and very dry air, and store pearls flat rather than hanging.
- Have prongs and clasps checked by a jeweler periodically, especially before wearing an older piece regularly.
- Keep your photos, lists and appraisals somewhere safe and separate from the jewelry itself.